Mountaineering Peaks
Join your guide on one of the many classics the Rockies, Purcells and Selkirks have to offer.
From one day to week long adventures, I am sure we can put a trip together you will remember for a long time. Often the best method for preparing for a big peak is to do some road side cragging or smaller objectives to prepare for the bigger outing. This gives you a chance to feel fit, refresh your skills and gives your guide an opportunity to assess your happy place for an upcoming larger outing. Many of the alpine objectives listed below have a combination snow, ice and rock and therefore general fitness and mountaineering skills can go a lot further than pop eye fore arms.
All trips can be combined with instructional courses like: crevasse, rock rescue or learn to lead. With this type of arrangement you not only bag a summit but you have an opportunity to learn how to be self sufficient when climbing with your friends at another time. Check out some of our locations below.
What to Bring
Cost Per Day for Mountaineering Peaks
1 Person $700
2 People $900 or $450 per person
*Please add 5% sales tax to the above amounts.
*There may be additional expenses such as food, gear rental, park fees, transportation or accomodation.
*Full-day and multi-day trips available.
From April to November, weather permitting.
Guiding Ratios
Larger more complex objectives are often guided 1:1, while smaller less technical objectives may be guided at a higher ratio. For mountaineering trips with minimal technical terrain, larger groups can be accommodated. Get in touch with us to discuss your options.
Surcharge for Bigger Objectives
For larger objectives or routes with increased hazards, there may be an additional charge applied to your booking. Mountaineering/Alpine Rock days that exceed 10 hours in length, rock climbs that are longer than 400 meters, or ice climbs graded WI5 or higher are good examples of when this surcharge would apply. You may also need to demonstrate the ability and experience required to your guide. Prep days or training days are not uncommon and can be arranged to see if you’re ready for your chosen BIG route. Surcharge amount can be $200.00 or more per day. Please contact us if you think your BIG route may fall into this category.
THE ROCKIES
Mount Louis, 2667m is a great climbing objective as it is clearly seen as you drive into Banff from the East and has plenty of high quality rock climbing in an alpine environment. An outing on Mount Louis often consists of an early start and walking for a few hours through beautiful alpine meadows filled with wild flowers and astounding views of Mount Edith along the way. The most classic route on the mountain is the Kain Route, rated 5.6 the first half of the route consists of excellent short roping and pitched climbing. The second half has continual pitched climbing up to 5.6 as the route joins the Perren Variation with its super exciting and steep limestone pitch, tag the summit, sign the register and begin multiple rappels down the mountain. Other routes such as the Gmoser Route, 5.9 or Homage to the Spider, 5.10a are not to be overlooked by the experienced rock climber.
Castle Mountain, 2895m is another classic alpine rock route. Clearly seen as you drive west along the trans-canada highway towards lake louise. The mountain boasts a simple but adequate mountain hut maintained by the Alpine club of Canada. A trip to Castle Mountain often consists of either a day trip to Eisenhower Tower rated 5.4 with tons of excellent short roping up the Dragons Back, followed by amazing pitched traditional climbing. Or if a longer trip is desired a stay at the Castle Mountain Hut followed by an ascent of Brewers Butress is hard to beat for a full couple days of alpine rock climbing. The mountain boasts many other objectives like Look Out Butress, 5.10a or Super Brewers, 5.9 to name a few.
Mount Fay, 3234m Lake louise group is considered an all time classic for its unique nature of both rock and ice climbing. Leaving Moraine Lake we hike through trees, meadows and talus, quickly rewarded with views of what is to come. Climbing steep rock steps brings us ever closer to the fay glacier and one of the best huts in the area. The Neil Colgan Hut, 2955m run by the Alpine Club of Canada is conveniently placed near the start of two classic objectives. Mount Little, 3134m can normally be done after some lunch at the hut. After some summit shots and a couple high fives its back to the hut for some well deserved dinner, a glass of wine and rest! No trip to the Neil Colgan is complete without an ascent of Mount Fays West Ridge, 5.3. with its amazing and airy short roping and pitched climbing that leads to a gentle summit and heart stopping relief down the East Face. Descent is down the same way as the ascent and normally followed by immediate descent or another night at the hut. As a harder alternative Mount Fays North Face routes offers very steep and continuous ice climbing.
Mount Temple, 3540m with its dominating north face standing over Lake Louise has less relief but similar nature as the Eiger in Switzerland. The SW ridge provides a lovely scramble with incredible views. For a much more difficult day the NE ridge 5.7 can be followed with ever steepening quartzite and limestone rock steps that lead to the black towers before the summit ridge. After ascending this exciting mixed pitch, a bergschrund and a double cornice ridge takes you to the top of the mountain before descending the SW Ridge and a hike back to Moraine Lake after a very long day. Other venues in the area are the Grand Sentinel which consists of superb quartzite rock climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10d range.
Mount Assininboine, 3618m is considered the Mattehorn of the Rockies and can be climbed in a four day round trip allowing for a weather day. The mountain has a climbers hut (The Hind Hut) that provides close access to the mountains north face, 5.5. Helicopter access can be arranged and is recommended if fitness or time frame is an issue.
Other Rockies’ Classics consist of Mount Athabasca, Mount Victoria and Mount Edith Cavell.
THE BUGABOOS
If amazing granite cracks for a more alpine rock climbing experience and mellow glaciers are what you desire a trip to the Bugs is required. Either camping at the spectacular applebee campground with its short approaches or a stay at the Conrad Kain hut can be accommodated for whatever length of time is required. Common objectives are either the Kain route 5.6 or the NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8. The Snow Patch route 5.7 or Surfs Up Ledge 5.8. on Snow Patch Spire. These trips can be combined with other objectives such as Lions Way 5.7, the West Ridge of Pigeon 5.3 or the the Ultra Classic and long Becky Chounard route 5.10.
ROGERS PASS
The birth place of North American mountaineering. Accessed from the Trans Canada between Golden and Revelstoke Rogers Pass, 1330m hosts iconic quartzite peaks known for their blocky holds and amazing quality stone and lovely alpine meadows.
Hermit Meadows Ascent
A two or three day trip to Hermit Meadows providing access to peaks such as Mount Tupper, 2804m with its high quality rock climbing the Swiss Peaks Traverse 3169m provides a classic mountaineering objective on snow and rock.
Mount Sir Donald A two day trip to the ultra classic Mount Sir Donald, 3284m (see Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s 50 Classic Climbs of North America.) is an unforgettable summit and can not be missed. Usually a few hour approach, time to set up camp and enjoy the views is followed by a long summit day and possibly a walk back to the car.
Photo top of page: Travel Alberta
Mountain Photos: Wikimedia